Turnball & Asser
BY APPOINTMENT TO
H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES
SHIRTMAKERS

Self-On-Self Weave

Other types of weave

Plain
Oxford
Lace
Twill
Grenadine
Herringbone
Houndstooth
Jacquard
Moire
Repp
Ribbed
Satin
Barathea
Self-On-Self
End-On-End



Warp and Weft


All weaves are made up from Warp and Weft ‘yarns’. Warp ‘yarns’ run along the length of the material, whilst weft ‘yarns’ run across the width of the material. It is the different methods of interlacing the warp and weft ‘yarns’ that create a particular type of weave. Many of the most common weaves have acquired names that come down to us over the centuries.

Self-On-Self Weave


Self-on-self, also known as Self Figure, is not a particular style of weave; rather it is a generic term for any weave that creates a pattern within the cloth where the weave of the design differs from the ground weave. Self-on-Self is generally employed on plain colours (most commonly white-on-white), the pattern being the same colour as the ground.




Brief Glossary of Weaving Terms

Float
A float is created when a warp or weft ‘yarn’ is passed over two or more threads.
Shed
A shed is the opening created on a loom where the weft passes between the warp ‘yarn’.
Pick
A pick (also referred to as a shot) is a single pass of the weft through the ‘shed’.
Ends
Individual warp threads.
Yarn

Yarn is the generic term for a thin, long, continuous strand of textile fibre, filament, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise intertwining (or interlacing) to form a textile fabric.

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